I'm suffering from a bit of jet lag and since I'm up in the early hours of the morning with an active brain, I thought I would rant a little to see if I can shut myself down so that I can return to somewhat "normal" hours.
Anyway, I thought I would rant about a subject that seems to be making the Singapore news quite a lot these days - foreigners. Like it or not, we live in age of globalisation and global mobility is the order of the day. In order to move beyond the mail room, one has to accept that one will have to travel at least once in a professional life. We have to accept that some stage or another, we are all going to be "foreigners."
This is especially true if you come from a small state like Singapore. The nation was founded as a trading outpost and it's prosperity has always depended on being open to trade with the rest of the world. Like every prawn in the ocean, Singapore needs to swim with the big fish in order to survive and that means being open to large inflows of people from all over the world. As much as I may sometimes understand and sometimes understand with the rants of my fellow countrymen, isolation does not work. Let's put it this way, the only country that prides itself in being isolated from the world is North Korea.
Singapore has been a role model for many small state-lets across the world and one of our most prominent students is Dubai, the second largest Emirate in the United Arab Emirates (UAE). As far as the rest of the world is concerned, Dubai stands out as a friendly example as an "Arab" success story that didn't depend on oil. Until the recent economic crisis, Dubai had such a glossy image that my Saudi friends at Aramco who were running an event in Singapore, were actually asked, "Which part of Dubai do you come from?" (The only remark I got was, "Geography must be taught really badly in Singapore")
Just as Singapore has thrived on an image of modern efficiency in a region not known for it, Dubai has thrived being a bastion of openness in a region not known for it. No where is this more visible to me than in the airport. Dubai airport (like Singapore's Changi) is an architectural wonder. It's a place of thriving commerce, every brand known to modern capitalism is there and guess what, there are places where non-Muslims can get a drink.
To a lot of people, this is fun. If you ask 10 people where they'd rather visit, Riyadh, Tehran or Dubai, 11 of them would say Dubai and it's easy to see why. As a foreigner in Dubai there are ways of getting a drink and seeing girls that not covered up - in fact Dubai has every convenience of the modern world and more - if you want to go skiing, you don't need to go to Switzerland, Dubai has it's own ski resort with artificial snow.
Like Singapore, Dubai is exceedingly "foreigner" friendly, which is probably why I found my two lay overs in one of the world's most glamorous airports to be - disappointing. My reasons for finding Dubai airport disappointing are pretty much the same reasons why trips across the Causeway are so necessary for sanity.
Call me sentimental, but I do miss the sight of men in thobe and women in their abaya's. Say what you like about Riyadh but you know you are in the Middle East, you know you are in the Arabian heartlands. Dubai or at least Dubai airport feels so "Modern" it actually looks like any where else. My favourite thing about the entire place was the fact that I could hear announcements in Arabic. That was literally only thing telling me that I was actually in the Middle East.
I am enough of a realist to realise that sentimentality for the "Old" way is usually just that. Much as I bitch and moan about Singapore, I live here because there is a lot to be said about being able to walk on clean, safe streets and drinking water from the tap. I think the same can be said about Dubai, when compared to it's regional neighbours.
Yet, there's something missing in these small state-lets, which their larger, regional neighbours have - I think the right term is culture or if you want to get personal, a soul. I like living in Singapore thanks to its modern infrastructure. Yet, I feel exceedingly depressed whenever I come back from Bangkok, which is by comparison, dirty and smelly. Bangkok has a certain charm to it and for all the apparent "ugliness" people get on with life and they adapt. I remember going out for dinner in an Italian restaurant in Bangkok, when the lights went out (power shortage). Instead of walking out or shutting down, the restaurant was quick to provide candle light and dinner went on as normal. You won't get the power outage in Singapore but then again, you don't get pleasant service either.
I've never really lived in Dubai so I can't make a fair comparison for the Middle East and I wonder if you can, but I suspect that I may not be far of the mark.
Modernity or at least the Western version of it is exceedingly comfortable and I can see why people like it, I do. But it's not the be all and end all of everything. Yes, it's important to be "foreigner friendly," but as a foreigner one should also learn to appreciate your host for their culture and what they are.
Take the example of language. In Singapore everyone speaks English or at least a version of it. As a foreigner there's no need to learn the "local" language. That's not true of Thailand. While a lot of Thai's speak some English (particularly in Bangkok), you do need to learn a few sentences of Thai to get by. I believe that this is correct, why should the Thai's be the only ones making the effort to communicate particularly when they are in their own country.
On the international scale, the France became known as the only place in Europe where one had to know French. The French let be known that they could speak English by they refused to. I used to find that inconvenient but now, when I look back at it, the French are right. You have to accept globalisation and certain cultural aspects of it such as being able to speak the "modern" global language of English but why should you be the only one doing all the adaption and adoption. You can't just expect the host to be good without the guests being good too.
Take the issue of Sharia law. I think Muslims in the West have no right to ask Western governments to have a special exception for Islamic laws. If you want to live in the West and earn Western pounds, Kroner or Euros, you have to accept that you live under Western laws. Practice your own religious beliefs in your own private space but leave them out of the public arena.
On the other hand, I also admire Saudi Arabia for applying Sharia to all. I remember feeling quite perturbed by a couple of Americans in Riyadh who told me, "Do Westerners have to follow the same rules." Of course they should bloody well follow the rules. Just as it's annoying to listen to Muslim shopkeepers in the West demand religious customs override local laws, I get very upset when I hear executives of multinationals who expect to be treated differently. When you are welcomed to a country where you are provided with a good life and a chance to prosper, you should be have the decency to follow local customs and enjoy what the local culture has to offer instead of expecting special treatment. Call me strange but I find it disturbing that I can get drinks easily in a country where the laws are primarily Sharia. Why should foreigners expect to get exemptions? If your drinks are so important to your daily life, don't except a posting to a country where it is against the culture and more importantly the law.
As a Singaporean, I think our greatest moment of shame came when we actually reduced Michael Faye's canning by two strokes. We should have increased it by two. We all know that Mr Faye only got the reduction because the President had to give his two cents worth. Contrary to what our leaders may have thought, this move would not have scared off American expats - they will continue to come to Singapore as long as they can make money. Michael Faye's family were happy to accept the comfortable posting in Singapore but suddenly changed colours when they had to face the same laws as everyone else.
It's right that cultures get crossed. Cultural chauvinism can lead to many unpleasant things. Cultural diversity makes life more interesting and colourful. Contrary to what people may think, cultures are dynamic and constantly evolving. Hollywood dominates the global movie scene because of America's cultural diversity and dynamism. However, cross cultural flows need to be managed carefully, and people need to understand each other. Yes, we have to accept foreigners as part of the cultural landscape and we need to give them their own space but do we really need to do it to an extent where our own identity gets lost and we lose our purpose for someone elses?